The expedition was divided into seven legs. Due to various reasons, I couldn't go on any leg but the last, the seemingly least difficult leg, but then again, it would be spent sailing the Caspian Sea. When the crew list was ready, it turned out that the four of us mustering on would be of a geographically spread out origin, indeed; me coming from Lycksele in Lapland, Rickard from Scania, Patrik from Stockholm and Per from Gothenburg. We contacted each other in order to organize the trip from Sweden, a seemingly easy task which turned out to be most complex. After checking different alternatives, we settled on travelling from Arlanda to St Petersburg and on to Baku, and so far, there were no problems. The problems arose as we were forced to apply for a visa for the two overnight stays in connection with the changing of flights and airports in St Petersburg. The problem wouldn't have happened if we’d been able to show our Azeri visa, but we were to be given these on arrival, and it wasn't possible to get these visa in advance. Finally, this was solved by buying a Russian visa at an exuberant price, just to get the problem out of the way. For my part, the problems started already as I was about to leave Lycksele. I had planned to depart by plane on a Saturday morning, but no flight was leaving then, so I had to book a train ticket and arrive in Stockholm with ample time over to meet my fellow travellers and get to Arlanda, where the flight would leave at 1800 hours. With some trepidation, I boarded the train at Vännäs station at 2000 hours, and was told by the conductor that we would be a few hours late, but still arrive on time. After a beer in the restaurant car I went to bed and suddenly awoke at 0500 hours, the train was at a standstill. I got out, but to my horror noted that we were still in the same place were I jumped on.

Some ‘ump’-teen problems later, I got hold of a rental car and floored the accelerator in order to get to Stockholm and managed, with a few hours to spare, to park at Arlanda. The trip to Baku went free of mishaps and we were given some insight in how things are at airports in the Eastern Block countries, which merits a tale all of its own. Ahead in Baku, we were picked up by a doctor who had had contact with the Vittfarne association. The good doctor drove us to a hotel where we were to wait for our co-driver Akaki who was going to fix his car. After staying overnight and a quick sightseeing in town, we started off on uneven roads, and arrived at last. By then it had already gone dark, and it was just a matter of pitching the tent and shimmying into the sleeping bag.

28 July.

Dschavad.

This first morning, we were given a wake up call and served porridge. Håkan and Thomas went through the routine, which we were to follow the next two weeks. The spot we now were based on, was perhaps the very place where the crew of the original Ivar train were attacked by the wicked Greeks with flamethrowers. After the briefing, it was time to load the ship. It seemed far too small to room all the gear, but it soon turned out that this was no problem. At long last, it was time to get to the oars for the first day of rowing. Soon it was evident that there was no trouble rowing, but far worse was the heat, which peeked at between 40 and 45 centigrades in the shade, every day. The only way to cool down was to wet your shirt and cap in the river water and wear them later, as we didn't dare to swim in the same river water. The river Kura runs through several countries, and has its estuary in the Caspian Sea, but it can be looked upon as one vast sewage drain, as the banks lining the villages were used as garbage dumps and mooring places for fishermen.

29 July.

Meyniman.

A calm and enjoyable night in the east. We are off to a late start, and have to row as we haven't done anything else for our entire lives in order to make up for the time lost. Towards lunch we encounter a town and decide to go to a restaurant. We found one that was situated on the river, so that we had the ship in full view, thus no need to post a guard. We were given a royal welcome, since we were celebrities. We were asked to sit down and beer for everyone was carried there, and we were told that the Mayor was coming over to invite us in. We made a call to get hold of Akaki and the expedition car, and he promised to come. The mayor arrived with TV-, radio- and newspaper reporters, and treated us to a slap-up feed with beer and Vodka. Finally we had to leave, as we were behind schedule. Emoted by the beer and the drink, our rowing went great, and we found a nice spot for our camp in the evening. In spite of the spot being nice, it didn't take many minutes for all the kids in the vicinity to find us. I and Rickard who had stayed behind to cook dinner while the others had gone off to shop for food had to take a break since the kids were everywhere, and we were afraid that something not belonging to them would go amiss.

30 July

The village of Igribgulhi

I woke up after a somewhat troublesome night. We were visited by a drunk horse trader and three youngsters brandishing knives last night. We sent them away from the camp, but I had one of the first watches, and could see the embers from their cigarettes just a short distance away. I could see that Håkan was pretty angry, for the first and only time. He came out of his tent with the flashlight and the riot stick and went over to them. In a mix of Russian and English he explained in absolutely clear terms that if they didn't get lost immediately, something very nasty indeed would happen to them. At the sight of this otherwise calm Viking, who now almost looked like a Berserk, they realized that it would be best to get as far from the camp as possible. The usual rowing went on through a more and more desert landscape. I had no problems with blisters, but my skin started to hurt, despite frequent use of all kinds of sun blocking agents.

31 July

The village Komsomol

Rowing as usual, we have now learnt that you don’t have to go very far, there are, inhabited areas all along the banks. We stopped at a town to buy some of the Russian caviar, which is said to be cheap here. Caviar turns out to be forbidden for sale among ordinary people, and a runner is sent to get some jars. After a long wait, he comes back with glass jars, the contents of which wouldn’t be fit for human consumption when we get home, so we didn’t buy anything. We are but a short distance from the estuary, so we look and find a place to stay overnight at a farm, belonging to a bachelor. Simon explained to him that we were only going to stay for one night, but as it turned out, we stayed for several nights more.

1 August

The Kura estuary

We woke up, as a bunch of armed military visit our camp. They probably didn't see us coming yesterday. We explained that we were going on to Baku, and that we are waiting for the right winds. We walked off a few kilometers to the sea, and finally plunge into relatively clean water. On the way back we empty some small shops of beer and cigarettes.

2 august

The Kura delta.

The military didn’t want to let us go, since they needed a go-ahead from their Foreign Affairs Department. Håkan's contacts promised to arrange all the clearances necessary, but the problem was that the Minister who had been helping the expedition out so far, didn't answer his phone. Akaki and Håkan went off to scout the coast further to the north.

3 August

The Kura delta.

Yet another day without a solution to the problems around the military. We empty the expedition car and drive on to Neftchalan to eat a sumptuous meal, to send some emails and to do some shopping. There is some commotion as we arrive, the newspapers have been writing about us and we have to make uóurselves understood by the means of English, German and sign language. Some of us try to buy Russian caviar at the black market, there are a few shady characters who try to arrange it all, but we give up our attempt at last. Still, we figure we needed this day off after all the problems with the military etc.

4 August

The Kura delta.

Nothing special, we take our usual route to the sea and buy a few beers along the way.

5 August

The Kura delta.

All that happens today is that Per decides to leave the expedition. Everyone thinks that this is a great shame, but it propably wasn't to his liking, just spending the time sitting beside the ship and waiting is nothing for a sailor from the Swedish west coast.

6 August

The Kura delta

Akaki goes to Baku in order to pick up Stine, a Danish reporter from Illustrerad Vetenskap who is to accompany us for a day. We spend the day as usual, playing cards, reading, smoking and resting. However the frustration spreads; what is happening, will we ever be able to leave this sewage canal ? Akaki and Håkan spend more and more time on the phone in order to solve the stalemate in which we have landed, and finally, Akaki gets hold of the Minister and the problem is solved in 15 minutes. Seemingly, the military had believed that we were going to Kazakstan; What in the world would we do there?? Well, spirits are high and not the least since Thomas is celebrating his birthday and thus bought some meat to grill, and some crates of Xirdalan. I'm thinking that Stine was lucky indeed to have something to write about, now that she is coming after all.

7 August

The Kura delta

Now the time has come, the big day has arrived when we finally are to sail the good ship Himingläva on the Caspian Sea. After a quick breakfast, we load everything and start to row out into the Sea. There at last, we meet a few fishermen who wave at us in a dissuading fashion, but we give everything we have with our six oarsmen and finally get past the high waves. All of a sudden, we are out at sea. The sail is hoisted and the Champagne opened, sure as heck, we are going to sail ! This is rock'n roll, we fly past the crested waves and like in the Marabou commercial, we sometimes soar, and the next instant we see waves all around. This is my first time out sailing, despite the fact that I spent the years of my youth fishing on the lake at home in Lapland. Sail boats weren't around at all in the still lakes of the Northland, but we had to use oars, and when we turned older, we had to pull the starting cord of the engine. I was somewhat anxious that sea sickness would strike me - I can hardly go on a Finland ferry without having had some whiskey, but this time nothing happened. Problems did arise with the rudder line, which broke a couple of times, but thanks to a skilful Captain, this was soon set aright. All good things must come to an end, and we finally had to put ashore in order to strike camp before darkness fell. We had been given thorough instructions how this should be done, and I think we managed quite well. The boat wasn't damaged nor filled with water. We raised the tents and fixed a good meal before shimmying into the sleeping bags.

8 August

The Caspian shore

A fine day, as usual. Wrong winds, and we spent the day swimming and relaxing, what else was there to do ?

9 August

The Caspian shore

We awake to another day with the wrong wind, but we keep our spirits high and wait for the winds to turn. Sunbathing, swimming, taking a walk to the village to do some shopping, reading, sleeping.

10 August

The Caspian shore

Now it feels like the time runs out from us as quickly as the winds, which consistently and stubbornly keep blowing in the wrong direction. We have to realize that there will be no more sailing.

11 August 

The Caspian Shore

Now, there is no turning back, the wind won't turn and Akaki and Simon go to collect the cart. We load the ship onto the cart later in the evening, in order to start the journey to Baku directly after breakfast tomorrow.

12 August

The Caspian village

We travel by cart to the nearest village, where we find some taxis, by which we will travel to Joakim Granberg's hotel, north of Baku. Håkan and Thomas go in the car with the ship. We are truly looking forward to spending a few days at this luxury hotel, since we know what awaits, which the others haven't any clue about. After some dilly-dallying, we get our rooms, and later we carry Himingläva down to the beach in front of the hotel.

13 August 

Mardakahn, Baku

Today we go swimming, and in the afternoon the whole gang goes downtown to Baku in order to enjoy ourselves at the local bars, and a proper thing we make of it too, if I'm about to brag...

14 August 

Mardakahn, Baku

The big day, the hotel is to be opened, and we will be toasted in all possible ways. We conduct a press conference, showing the ship, and the television cameras and radio reporters are all over the thing. I don't think anyone in Sweden can imagine what a turnout we get. We are seated at a long table close to the stage and the evening starts off with a green drink, sporting an umbrella. 1500 invited notables, and the most popular artists are on stage. Afterwards, just for once, following the tasty food and the lots of green drinks and beers, it so happens that, what should happen does happen anyway, as it usually does when drunk Vikings from Sweden are here to show off; one by one they wind up in the pool with their clothes on - even Joakim, the hotel manager. This is not really appreciated by the hotel owners, but some invited guests do take our customs seriously enough, and so join the fray in their Armani suits and expensive Italian shoes. One can only hope that we have started a new trend over here.

15 August 

Mardakahn, Baku

A relaxing day with more swimming, I'm trying to find my sandals, that disappeared yesterday. We go in to Baku and I buy a pair of shoes of the worst kind. We shop for souvenirs, and end the evening with a couple of beers.

16 August 

Mardakahn, Baku

Today it's time to go home for me, Patrik and Rickard, and with a certain amount of pangs of the heart, we leave our friends and Himingläva in these Eastern realms. Viktor and Janne left yesterday already, and the rest are traveling home the best way they can. Now, we are used to the disorderly standing in line and just take things easy until everyone has pushed and shoved past, and we arrive at our (cosy) hotel in St Petersburg for a final stopover before walking on Swedish soil again.

17 August

St Petersburg, Russia

The last leg home. A transport to the airport and everyone have upset stomachs, but we decide that things can't get any worse, so we order sushi and gulp it down with gusto. Then we buy a few last souvenirs and board the plane for Arlanda. On arriving, we go home to Patrik, and I rush off to the local Men’s Wear for a new suit ahead of a night out with old Vittfarne men. We weren't the best of company, we mixed the beer drinking with toilet visits and yawns, so the night was a short one. Tomorrow, one will go home to Lycksele, and then starts the tedium of trying to tell your loved ones what you have seen and experienced.

Final words.

Jag skriver detta några år efter resan och det känns som man inte hunnit sortera alla upplevelser än och man kanske aldrig gör det.

I write this a few years after the expedition, and it seems like I haven’t had time enough to sort out all the memories yet; perhaps I never will. However, I want to thank everyone who made this the biggest experience of my life so far, especially Håkan, Thomas, Viktor and Jonas. But also my fellow travellers, Rickard, Patrik and Per.

Mikael Jakobsson